I ran no capacitor on the input, and 4700 microfarad on the output. None on the input, as the 5V from the psu is filtered already. 4700 mF on the output as a storage battery, so there's lots of reserve for sleep/what not. I used a regulator called L78L33ACZ. Mouser p/n is 511-L78L33ACZ It's a smaller case than the TO-220 cases other regulators use, has only three leads (input, ground, and 3.3V output). Output is 0.1A, which is more than sufficient with the bluetooth board. AND, you can put any positive voltage inside the computer (5V or higher) in and get 3.3 out.
The other odd thing I did was to use single strands from 18 gauge wire to hook it up. I missed the warning about buying it with the cable ($4 was too low to turn down), and so I broke off the connector and soldered wires to the individual strands, then soldered the individual strands to the pads on the PCB. I couldn't even see what I was doing. The way I got it to work was to slowly move the strand and look at the reflected light from the pad. Once I got it in place, I soldered. After I got two done, I used silicone to insulate the strands and hold the wires in place. Later, I soldered the +V wire and then soldered the ground to one of the larger ground pads. Tested in the usb port of a G4mdd running Leopard...Works perfectly, bluetooth menus come up, etc. Using just the bluetooth extension antenna wire from a G5, about 1/2" exposed at the end...At least 20 feet of range. The other one's going into the hack. Sorry no pix. Can't focus my eyes at it, much less a camera.
btw if I remember right I used a 33pF and a 47pF instead..
at work we only use pF capcitors..
