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6/8 cores in a Cube / X99 / 5930k / GTX 970 mini / 32GB RAM / M.2 SSD PCIe Gen3 x4

neilhart

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luchazo do you intend to preserve the G4 Cube latch handle and related latch mechanisms? If yes, you should include these into your space planning. If not then how will your cube be held in the G4 Cube case?

Good modding,
neil
 
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luchazo do you intend to preserve the G4 Cube latch handle and related latch mechanisms? If yes, you should include these into your space planning. If not then how will your cube be held in the G4 Cube case?

Good modding,
neil
Hi Neal,
In fact, I saw no way to keep the latch mechanism. I'll need to design a way to keep the cube "floating" without the handles.
That's why I have the full 170x170x170mm of the cube empty for parts (Just 4.91L of volume though)

Once I get the parts (on Tuesday), and I have a visual comprehension of the situation, I'll try to see an alternative and keeping 1, or 2 of the latches if possible. (which I'm pretty sure I won't be able)

Thanks for the message!
 

neilhart

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luchazo - I have seen, somewhere that I do not currently recall where, the modder cut the top layer off of the acrylic body and used that top piece attached to the cube body. Then the cube just dropped into the case from the top.

Good modding,
neil
 
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luchazo - I have seen, somewhere that I do not currently recall where, the modder cut the top layer off of the acrylic body and used that top piece attached to the cube body. Then the cube just dropped into the case from the top.

Good modding,
neil
Nice idea actually. thanks.

What I have in mind, for now, are these different approaches that I need try out (in the following order):
0- a way to keep the 450W PSU externaly
1- to use only 1 of the original latches (instead of the 2). This would be ideal since I have space for only 1 of the bars at the sides.
2- to use another mechanism in the top of the cube, that locks the cube(from the top vent)
3- to use 2 nice bolts from the top (I've seen this option in this forum already)
4- use 2 new acrylic thin bases next to the acrylic in the bottom of the cube, that will stop the metal cube from going down.
 
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luchazo - I have seen, somewhere that I do not currently recall where, the modder cut the top layer off of the acrylic body and used that top piece attached to the cube body. Then the cube just dropped into the case from the top.

Good modding,
neil
That was one of mine Neil......

Link

And my latest will be ready soon that one will have a replacement inner core as to be frank the original core has reached the limit, so a complete new core was the next step for me. That and no cutting at all of any of the original G4 parts.
 
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Nice idea actually. thanks.

What I have in mind, for now, are these different approaches that I need try out (in the following order):
0- a way to keep the 450W PSU externaly
1- to use only 1 of the original latches (instead of the 2). This would be ideal since I have space for only 1 of the bars at the sides.
2- to use another mechanism in the top of the cube, that locks the cube(from the top vent)
3- to use 2 nice bolts from the top (I've seen this option in this forum already)
4- use 2 new acrylic thin bases next to the acrylic in the bottom of the cube, that will stop the metal cube from going down.
I have a few doubts on some of this - though I applaud ambition!
I have one of the Silverstone SFF PSU units and it is not an easy marriage with the Cube. Issue is that while it may fit it has an air path which has a 90 degree bend in it, so wherever you exhaust the air, you need a free air path at right angles to it. In a Cube that is not possible without cutting out one of the acrylic sides of the case (and the metal). Another issue is that even if you get it to fit in the Cube you will not have room for the rest of your components.
In my opinion if you want to keep it all in the cube and not cut the exterior then the only sensible way for powering is to keep consumption (total watts) down to what can be provided by either the largest PicoPsu, or to find another PSU with a possible straight line cooling path preferably bottom to top that will physically conform to the constraints of the cube enclosure. Or to find a decent Thin ITX or other format option that will satisfy your needs.
Just as a heads up on my next cube the mechanism I plan on refining is a strong magnetic catch to keep everything in place.
By the way the two bolts thing at the top (your option 3) is what I used in my water cooled cube and that is a reasonable (and safe!) way for securing the core.
 
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And my latest will be ready soon that one will have a replacement inner core as to be frank the original core has reached the limit, so a complete new core was the next step for me. That and no cutting at all of any of the original G4 parts.
Will you use the original bottom plate or a new one?

Cheers
F
 
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I'll be using a new bottom plate. I'll stop talking about this now though as I don't want to hijack this thread.....I'll start a new one soon!
 
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I have a few doubts on some of this - though I applaud ambition!
I have one of the Silverstone SFF PSU units and it is not an easy marriage with the Cube. Issue is that while it may fit it has an air path which has a 90 degree bend in it, so wherever you exhaust the air, you need a free air path at right angles to it. In a Cube that is not possible without cutting out one of the acrylic sides of the case (and the metal). Another issue is that even if you get it to fit in the Cube you will not have room for the rest of your components.
In my opinion if you want to keep it all in the cube and not cut the exterior then the only sensible way for powering is to keep consumption (total watts) down to what can be provided by either the largest PicoPsu, or to find another PSU with a possible straight line cooling path preferably bottom to top that will physically conform to the constraints of the cube enclosure. Or to find a decent Thin ITX or other format option that will satisfy your needs.
Just as a heads up on my next cube the mechanism I plan on refining is a strong magnetic catch to keep everything in place.
By the way the two bolts thing at the top (your option 3) is what I used in my water cooled cube and that is a reasonable (and safe!) way for securing the core.
Thanks minihack!
In fact, I agree totally with you!
The fan on the ST45SF-G, 90 degrees from the intake, makes it complicated.
I like the SFF of this PSU, and that it gives you 450W (I have the 160 pico-PSU (200w max) too, but it just doesn't put enough power for the 6-core.

I'm at home already(Buenos Aires), with all the parts I brought from USA yesterday, so this weekend, I'll try to start putting togheter, at least in a mock-up cube case made with MDF to start checking checking temps (and to see if everything works or if there is something DoA)

Regarding the 90 degrees on the Silverstone PSU, I've been thinking (and dreaming) about it.

I've thought into 2 extra options besides the hot air going to the center, and then to the top exhaust (which is option 1):

Option 2: (preferred)
make the exhaust (90 degrees from the intake), to blow the hot air, not to the center of the cube, but to a side of it (a small gap), that will lead the air to the top of the cube (to the gap of the DVD unit). It should create a flow from the intake at the bottom of the Cube, to the top DVD Gap(removing the felt of course).
Or, if I set the mobo at the front of the cube, the PSU will be at the place where everybody puts the mobo, and then it will have the gap on top (the venting of the original cube's graphic card)


Option 3: (this involves stripping the PSU)
By looking at the officials photos like the following, I've started thinking on changing the orientation of the stock fan, so it puts the hot air 180degrees from the intake at the bottom. Or possibly changing it for a smaller one. (I don't like to remove it for safety hazards, because If I do so, I'll need to replace it with a resistor and I don't want to go that path yet.
st45sf-g-34right-top.jpg ST45SF-G-INSIDE.jpg


All the above, is going to be difficult if I use the stock cooler of the ASRock X99E-ITX/ac, which is:
Dyantron's R24:
R24.jpg

But I've also bought 2 alternatives for the 140W TDP of the i7-5280K, with much lower profile like Dynatron R25 and R31:

Dyantron's R25:
R25.jpg

Dyantron's R31:
R31.jpg

Please note that these 2 are server type coolers, so they need a constant airflow that goes through the middle of the many many fins they have. I bought also a couple of Noctua low profile coolers for this purpose, that paired with a 3d-printed plastic air tunnel would make the cool air go from the bottom, thru the R31/R25, and then up to the exhaust open in the top of the cube.

The above smaller coolers will make the blue square (R24) much smaller, easing the airflow along the core of the system.
cube_color_@.jpg


But I'm not done, on the thinking I've put to this:

The above 2 options, if I go the regular way...

I've been thinking really outside the cube in case my preferred approach (air going from bottom up only) doesn't work.
This involves, as you say, holes in the acrylic and metal on the back:
The idea is that the 90 degrees will go to the back of the cube. This will allow, perhaps, a direct connection from the video card to the mobo (it may go down more than the bottom. I need to check this)

back_exhaust.jpg

OK, now I'm done.
Let's hope I have some positive feedback when I'm done with all my temp testing in the mock case I planned to do this weekend.
 
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