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G4 Quicksilver Coffee Lake Build

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That looks great! Could you do me a favor? could you please measure the distance from your MB to the Hinge of the door?
There is 2 3/4".
 
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So I am done with the build. It came out pretty nice and I accomplished what I set out to do. I ended up buying the cables from CableMod because I did not have the patience to do it myself but still I am pretty happy. As I type this I am doing the installation of the os, I will let you know how that goes.
Below a couple of pics of the final product.
 
This looks super clean and just has me itching to do something with my quicksilver...
 
I have sawtooth G4 back in the US, Its a 400 Mhtz and the thing still runs like new. I've been doing my research so when I get back I can start doing my upgrading. I should be back in the states in 2-3 months (God willing), and then I will start the project with Updates in this forum. My goal is to keep the CD drive, and with the right MB I think it may be possible. Also the liquid cooling, I'm thinking a single fan AIO unit standing next to the MB with the hoses on top, so when the door closes, it will just fold down on to the opening, this means no stretching hoses as they will just run from the top to the CPU over the video card. I can't wait to get started.
 
Hello,

Big time fan of your work. I loved the simple solution to the power buttons along with fitting a full size GPU. I plan on doing a similar G4 build with the 8700k with a full GPU as well.

I was curious if you know what the length of the tubing is for your AIO cooler. Most closed loop coolers seem to have a short tube length.

Thank you very much!
 
Hello,

Big time fan of your work. I loved the simple solution to the power buttons along with fitting a full size GPU. I plan on doing a similar G4 build with the 8700k with a full GPU as well.

I was curious if you know what the length of the tubing is for your AIO cooler. Most closed loop coolers seem to have a short tube length.

Thank you very much!
Thanks! The closed loop I used (Alphacool Eisbaer 240) also came with shorter tubing, but with the caveat that it is a modular package. Basically I got a some white tubing (white just for aesthetics) and cut it as I needed it.

I would highly recommend the new EISBAER LT that just came out ( I feel like getting it myself). The block is lower and it allows for a full size PS. If you read my thread I had to change the PS to the current Silverstone I have because of that reason.
You will still have to replace the tubing.
 
I purchased a power/reset kit from amazon

Do you have a link for that? I tried the same approach but the Power/Reset kit that I bought on Amazon Germany has those long switches, not the flat ones like you have here.
 
Do you have a link for that? I tried the same approach but the Power/Reset kit that I bought on Amazon Germany has those long switches, not the flat ones like you have here.

Have you had any issues with the long switches? I bought a power/reset kit from China that I am still waiting for that has long switches.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-in1-PC-6...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

At worse you can de-solder the switches from the original pcb circuit board right?
I was thinking that if the switches are too long maybe putting a spacer in between the mounting screws to allow for a slightly larger gap.

When I get my switch, ill try to post my results.
 
Do you have a link for that? I tried the same approach but the Power/Reset kit that I bought on Amazon Germany has those long switches, not the flat ones like you have here.
I got the power/reset kit from amazon, you can get it from here.
 
That link is not a direct product link. Instead I am redirected to the german Amazon store. Nevermind though. I wasn't aware that the term "momentary" is an actual product term. On the german Amazon store it would be something like this. Question. Those momentary switches have four pins. I connect only two of the four, right? Which then?

Have you had any issues with the long switches?

Problem is that those have too much travel. You had to push in Apple's original buttons really hard to make them click. Secondly since they don't have the same measurements it's harder to place them correctly.
 
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