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Film Scoring/Music Production Build

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First time poster, long time follower.

I've finally gotten fed up enough with Apple's hardware restrictions and opted to build my own system. I'm a composer and am working on expanding to do film scoring. Because of this, I need to a bigger system than what I currently have. The equipment I'm planning on is:
CPU-Intel Core i7 6700K 4.00 GHz Unlocked Quad Core Skylake Desktop Processor, Socket LGA 1151 [BX80662I76700K]
MOBO-GIGABYTE LGA1151 Intel Z170 ATX Motherboard ATX DDR4 NA Motherboard (GA-Z170X-Designare)
GPU-EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB SSC GAMING ACX 3.0, 6GB GDDR5, LED, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) Graphics Card 06G-P4-6267-KR
Case-Corsair Carbide Series Black 300R Mid-Tower Computer Case
PSU-Corsair RMx Series, RM650x, 650W, Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Certified
WIFI-802.11AC Desktop Wifi Card 802.11 A/B/G/N/AC Bluetooth 4.0 OS X Yosemite 10.10+ PC/Hackintosh - Handoff and Continuity
RAM-Ballistix Sport LT 64GB Kit (16GBx4) DDR4 2400 MT/s (PC4-19200) DIMM 288-Pin - BLS4K16G4D240FSB (Gray)
Bootable Drive-Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD (MZ-V6E250BW)
HardDrive (x2)-Seagate 4TB BarraCuda SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive (ST4000DM005)
Keyboard-LogicKeyboard Color-Coded Shortcut Logic Pro X Mac Backlit ASTRA USB Wired Keyboard
Mouse-Logitech Trackman Marble Mouse, Four-Button, Programmable, Dark Gray
Cooling-Corsair Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60
Monitors (x2)-ASUS VS278Q-P 27-Inch Full HD 1920x1080 Gaming Monitor

My plan is to use my current computer, 2011 21.5" iMac, as a combination third monitor for the above system and a server hosting my sound libraries. Additional peripherals I hope to have running from the above system include:

USB Audio Interface-Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First
USB Mixer-BEHRINGER X-TOUCH
USB Keyboard/Piano-Casio Privia PX-3

The build, computer only, is about in the $2,500 USD range. If anybody notices anything that can be lowered for sake of cost with a minimal knock in performance or anything that doesn't look right from a cursory glance, please feel free to let me know. This will be my first build and I'd rather go with as close to peak on most everything as possible but also can't break the bank.

Thanks!
 
Overall I think your build looks great.


This is slightly overpowered. If you don't plan on overclocking you could step down to a 550w. However that MoBo is a monster do you may need the power....


This seems like A LOT. Unless you like the RGBs or aesthetics you could step down a tier (or two) in motherboard without losing anything of real value. Like this.


This might be a bit much for your use case unless you are editing those videos as well. Stepping down here would also reduce your power consumption.
 
Thank you very much!

I checked out the motherboard you suggested (I really don't care about the aesthetics or RGBs). I also stepped down the GPU to:

Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB G1 GAMING Graphic Card (GV-N105TG1GAMING-4GD)

It appears to still support my 2-3 monitor set up and is significantly cheaper as well as lower power draw.

I also realized I still hadn't checked everything in the PSU calculator and you were right. It came in at 515 W so the 550 W PSU would be enough. I'm not planning to overclock so that should be fine.

Again, thanks for the help!
 
I also realized I still hadn't checked everything in the PSU calculator and you were right. It came in at 515 W so the 550 W PSU would be enough. I'm not planning to overclock so that should be fine.

If you calculate 515W of maximum power draw you'd still want the 650W version instead of the 550W. Maybe in 3 years you could possibly upgrade to a more powerful graphics card, then the 550W PSU falls short. The price difference is not that significant. You can get the 650W model for just 10 dollars more. If you are in the USA.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139143&cm_re=RM650X-_-17-139-143-_-Product

It's 30 dollars below retail price through the end of today at Newegg.com.
 
If you calculate 515W of maximum power draw you'd still want the 650W version instead of the 550W. Maybe in 3 years you could possibly upgrade to a more powerful graphics card, then the 550W PSU falls short. The price difference is not that significant. You can get the 650W model for just 10 dollars more. If you are in the USA.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139143&cm_re=RM650X-_-17-139-143-_-Product

It's 30 dollars below retail price through the end of today at Newegg.com.


Why do I need the 650? Newegg actually showed only 550 W and under PSUs when I used their calculator.

Thanks!
 
You can use the 550W version. IMO it makes sense to pay 10 dollars more for the 650W version for future proofing. If you don't feel that way it's fine to get the 550.
 
It depends. If your actual draw is 515w, I agree, go with 650w. These calculators can be very...loose with the ratings and they account for some leg room.

One last note from me, 64GB of RAM is quite a bit but I assume you know that you will use that. If you could get by with 32GB it would save a good chunk of money, but the performance hit may hurt you too much.
 
You can use the 550W version. IMO it makes sense to pay 10 dollars more for the 650W version for future proofing. If you don't feel that way it's fine to get the 550.

Future proofing does make sense. I hadn't thought about that. Thanks!
 
It depends. If your actual draw is 515w, I agree, go with 650w. These calculators can be very...loose with the ratings and they account for some leg room.

One last note from me, 64GB of RAM is quite a bit but I assume you know that you will use that. If you could get by with 32GB it would save a good chunk of money, but the performance hit may hurt you too much.

Where I'm running DAWs and multiple sound libraries with video running, I'm trying to go with as much RAM as possible. I may not touch it but, being conscious of it on my current system always maxes out. I'd rather just go overboard on that and not have to worry about it at all. Thanks!
 
ummm, a suggestion for headroom/futureproofing... been doing this for years... thunderbolt in a music sys is where you want to be... no ifs, ands or buts... on z170 chipset, I would have done GA-Z170X-UD5 TH (if you can find one - a less expensive board than your buy list - and they do run dual t-bolt ports)... life-cycle and availability today, z270 probably... the UD class board's on-board power components have been very reliable...
 
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