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Can hackintosh brick a mobo?

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May 21, 2016
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Hi friends, about 2 months ago i tried to do my first hackintosh, but i didn't was able to boot the osx, once i went to the bios and saved, when i restarted the pc, my mobo didn't show any video. So i assumed it got broken.

The warranty covered it after a month, and I tried hackintosh again, i was able to boot and start installation, the pc restarted and boot, with Windows repair boot, but that's not a problem at all, just hd messed... I restarted to try boot the USB again and then, the mobo didn't show any video, but turns on the coolers and everything.

Can you guys can help me, if there's anything i can do? Is this something wrong with my hackintosh?

Specs

PSU : corsair cx500
Mobo : gigabyte h61m s1
Gpu : evga gtx 760
Ram 12gb

Sorry my bad English and sorry if i posted in wrong place.

Can you guys help me?
 
Can it brick a hobo? Possibly - as it writes to the mobo UEFI ROM chip, thereby modifying the BIOS.

[For example, my Z97 board typically displays the BIOS setup screen at 1k, 1900x1080, but after installing Clover it reset the BIOS setup screen to 2560x1440 (my monitor default resolution.) Looked great but I had an Hard Disk UEFI entry (the name of the OS X drive - EL Capitan) I had to remove as the initial Clover entry modified the Storage Boot selection as a default and would not boot the HD after running MultiBeast and Clover (which I updated to r3543 after having problems with the r3320). In my case it is endemic to the ASRock Z97 board. (Fix documented elsewhere on Tony's site.) My problem is that I have a 1TB drive 0 with Win8.1Pro on SATA0, a 1TB Linux Mint 17.3 MATE on SATA1, a 1TB Linux MINT /HOME drive on SATA2 and OS X on a 1TB drive on SATA3. Once Clover installed on the OS X drive it blew away my Windows and Linux Boot drive section in the BIOS. USB Clover saw the drives but could not boot into either OS. I've since decided to just leave Clover on my Mini USB drive and select it through the BIOS when I wish to boot into OS X, perhaps even going through the trouble of modifying my Linux Mint GRUB as my Linux drive contains the Boot EFI drive selection. (Or I can keep using my space heater Mac Pro G5... ) This should allow the Clover modifications that were saved to the OS X EFI partition to work correctly, even though I am booting from the USB and re-directing to the OS X HDD. I now have no interest in making the OS X drive completely bootable seeing as it would install itself into my BIOS/UEFI table.]

The same could have happened to you, where a refresh rate beyond the built in rate was installed. If you have on-board display, say, VGA, then you may want to remove your add-on video board and at the same time reset the BIOS. UEFI board typically now have a BIOS reset pushbutton instead of a jumper that has to be moved. You pull the power plug from your power supply and depress the BIOS Reset button for at least 30 seconds, then re-connect the power cord and power up the PC as usual, hopefully now being able to boot into the BIOS setup screen. If that doesn't work then you may need to pull the power plug after powering down the PC, usually by depressing the Power ON button for at least 4 seconds, then pulling the motherboard battery and leaving it out at least over night, sometimes as much as 24 hours; then re-install the battery (making sure that you do not put fingerprints on the battery (use a rubber glove, or use a paper towel to handle the battery), re-connect the power cord then power on the PC as usual.

Well, it looks like your mob doesn't have a push button, and it doesn't have a jumper; you have to short some pins:

After clr cmos black screen - Gigabyte - Motherboards - Tom's Hardware

Y5rbm7j.png

You can probably use a small blade screwdriver to short the two pins, so long as you make sure that you hold the screwdriver at the top portion of the chip pins and you don't hold it down at the bottom of the chip pins and inadvertently short a motherboard etch. Most ICs have a little round depression which signifies pin 1.

Best of luck. Hopefully you can get it working.
 
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Hello friend , it actually cleared some points on my mind and was really helpful.


In fact I ordered motherboard (Asus H61m at this time) because I heard that my gigabyte usually get this problem. I tried some steps trying to finally expect my mobo to work(I’ve already bought a new one if it break) , In fact it worked only when I removed the mobo battery and boot without it,I was able to update my bios and even enter on Windows. But some time later it stopped work again,for some reason SOMETIMES it turns on and about some minutes in black screen,it goes to bios screen.


Well,this mobo RIP …


But I really want to do Hackintosh,I’m a software engineer and OSX is really smooth and I want it as development environment. But im REALLY afraid to brick my third mobo lol.


I really liked your idea to doesn’t change boot records, and when need to boot to OSX use a usb drive to boot properly,sound really a good idea for me, once I use 2 Sata HDS(one for windows and another for hackintosh).


But as I said,I’m afraid to brick it again, there’s a way to install osx in HD without change this UEFI options? The usb recognizes the OSX in HD,it can’t boot,but I’m thinking theres some bootflag problems.


Can you help me please, friend?

I can send you mail email if you can help me,i'm not a totally new user at all,just a bad luck guy.

Thank you
 
Me and SDDs don't get along too well. I have a 120GB mSATA drive in a SATA3 enclosure and when I used OS X to format it OS X bricked it. I had to use both Linux and Windows 8.1 to bring it back from the dead. It now stays formatted in NTFS because HFS+ nearly killed it (it wiped out the serial number, too) and since Linux can write to an NTFS partition that seems the best way to go.

Tony has a section devoted to SDDs and multi booting. Me, I probably would have gone with a Samsung Pro (MLC) SDD, but I don't like the idea of installing a M.2 SATA type drive on my mobo, unless it was an ITX mobo, of course.

Since it is an SSD you will probably need to use UEFI boot records, and you should select an SSD that Tony has found to work well with OS X.

http://www.tonymacx86.com/buyersguide/may/2016#Solid_State_Drives

Cutting edge:
http://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/os-x-driver-for-nvme-m-2-solid-state-drives-released.181387/

As far as bricking a system goes, you'll just have to take the chance, like the rest of us who love to learn from our mistakes. :D (I had a hard time getting my HD to boot from the HD instead of USB and I was finally able to get it all sorted out; I used the latest MultiBeast and the latest Clover and a whole lot of help from the good folks here on Tony's website.

Booting type problems first start with the Mac ID selection, so see if the default 3,1 profile works. Once you get that going don't jump into making it a 14,2 or 15,1, for example. No, what you want to do is to make the HD bootable. There are threads elsewhere that should help. Once you get the HD to boot then you can use Clover to make the changes on the HD. Once it boots from HD and you've changed the ID profile you will probably get devices not working that worked with the Mac Pro 3,1 profile. That's when you need to get into the "nuts and bolts" (like clearing nvram and kernel caches and adding kext files manually).

My first suggestion for anyone who wants to use SSDs is to make sure that the motherboard has the maximum amount of memory the motherboard can take. In the case of my Z97 it is 32GB. Had I bought a Skylake board it would have forced me to install 64GB of memory, and because DDR4 2133 men is slower than DDR3 1600 or 2400 memory I would have had to get a Z170 board so that I could install 64GB of DDR 3200 memory, which cost $300 - $600 back in January, depending on the motherboard. Why max men? So that I could turn off Swap Space. Both Linux and Windows allows tweaking the SSD to allow the most performance and reliability from an SSD; I don't know what they are in OS X, yet. (And to tell you the truth I'm not in any hurray to find out.)

If you have a really powerful mobo, CPU, with MAX men you could run OS X under VMWare under Windows or Linux. That presents it's own set of problems, though. There's a section for running OS X under VMWare elsewhere on Tony's site.

I just looked at your ASUS Asus H61m. Hmmm, 16GB men sticks could be pricey... That's why I won't buy a mobo unless it has 4 men slots... 32GB would cost about $250. That's just a little bit more than what I paid for my 32GB. Unfortunately your H61MA can only support 16GB. That's the minimum I would install. After all, it's only about $50 for two 8GB sticks.

When working with your mobo the first thing you want to do is to disable all the "C" States in the BIOS, so that it doesn't go to sleep, it doesn't Hibernate, it doesn't go into Deep Sleep, etc. With PowerSaving turned off you won't need CSM to be enabled in the BIOS, either, which should allow the PC to boot faster. Only after you have a working Mackintosh should you play around with Power Saving settings because you won't know if you're chasing a video problem, a power setting problem, a kernel panic problem, etc.

My suggestion is to look at the other threads here that discuss "Won't Boot from Hard Disk" problems. If you boot from UEFI-USB then you may want to stick with the MultiBeast Legacy boot loader so that you can use the keyboard Function key to boot individually to either disk. Otherwise the first disk will have its boot record(s) modified and if the first disk drive ever dies you will have to boot from USB to get to the second drive.

My suggestion would be:

1] Boot Multi boot and install the OS.
2] Shut down the PC, remove the Usb, power up the PC and see if it boots from the disk.
3] if it doesn't boot from USB, power down the PC, insert the USB, turn on the PC, boot into the disk.
4] Copy MultiBeast, EFMounter and Clover onto your desktop.
5] Run MultiBeast, select Legacy Bootloader, install to the disk.
6] Shutdown the PC, remove the USB stick.
7] Power up the PC and see if it boots into the disk. (Good chance that it will.)
8] See if you can get out into the Internet. (Chances are good that you can.) Set the System Sound Preferences to Output -> Built-In. Sound may not work, so start MultiBeast from your desktop, select the Audio controller, Build, Install on the disk. Shutdown and re-start the PC.
9] Login and run MultiBeast from your Desktop. Does Sound work? If so, Add any other devices, as necessary, Build, Install to the disk. Reboot.
10] Once you know everything works fine you may now install the nVidia WebDriver if necessary. Reboot and see if the Display is set correctly. If it is, now, and only now, after you know everything works (USB slots, Audio, Ethernet, Video) should you try to change the Mac system ID.
11] Start Clover from your Desktop. Select an ID closest to your CPU type. Save to the disk. Reboot. Recheck USB, Audio, Ethernet, Video. Chances are good that some drive or other will not work correctly. It's "Nuts and Bolts" time... Rerun MultiBeast until everything works.
12] Now, and only now, should you play around with enabling BIOS and Clover C States and Power Saving Settings.

How to Copy USB EFI contents to System Drive EFI
  1. If you can only boot from USB installer and not the system drive, boot from the USB installer to the desktop
  2. Mount both EFI partitions. Tools such as EFI Mounter v3 don't always like mounting two EFI partitions at once, so try terminal commands like this:
    Code (Text):
    mkdir /Volumes/EFI && sudo mount_msdos /dev/disk0s1 /Volumes/EFI
    mkdir /Volumes/USBEFI && sudo mount_msdos /dev/disk1s1 /Volumes/USBEFI
    (those IDs are for only one internal and one external drive; to identify the right disk IDs, run "diskutil list" and look for the EFI partition just before the one named for your system drive, or named for the USB drive)
  3. You should see both EFI partitions in Finder. The system drive EFI should have a hard drive icon and the USB EFI should have an external drive icon and an eject icon
  4. Go to the system drive EFI (hard drive icon) and delete everything inside EFI/CLOVER/
  5. Go to the USB drive EFI (external drive icon) and copy everything from inside EFI/CLOVER/ to the EFI/CLOVER/ directory of the system drive EFI (drag and drop in Finder or whatever.
http://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/big-list-of-solutions-for-el-capitan-install-problems.173991/

BTW, after you install the OS and reboot through USB, copy MultiBeast to the desktop, then run Multibeast from the desktop and after selecting your bootloader build and install to your HD. Shutdown the PC, remove the USB stick, power on the PC and use the F key to get to the boot selection. You will probably see MAC OSX as a boot selection. It didn't work for me. But when I selected the SATA channel that MultiBeast installed onto (P3 xxxxxxxxx for me) it boots fine. Once Clover has been saved to the disk that's when you can now play around with installing the rest of the drivers and changing the MAC ID. When you download and install Clover onto your desktop make sure you mount the disk EFI partition and once mounted navigate to the EFI .plist file. When you double click it you should be able to now make modifications and when you exit it will save it to the disk.
 
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dear friend,
I have meet this trouble. PC go to deep sleep and can not power on. Try to plug power adapter, remove bios battery but not success.
And I have a smart guy with this instruction
First thing to do is to reset the BIOS.

Pull the power cord, jumper or push the button to reset the BIOS, switch back the jumper, connect the power cord, power up the PC, get into the BIOS, load Default settings, reboot, save/exit, get into the BIOS again set date/time and all the other settings.

I had the same type of problem - when I installed my video driver and updated Clover my BIOS splash screen went to 2k, 2560x1440, but the BIOS defaults to 1k, 1900x1080. When I see that I know that my BIOS has been mucked up. And what mucks it up? The Clover settings that get saved to NVRAM, which is your BIOS.

Right now you ca't get into OSX to clear the NVRAM so you will need to do it the hard way, the old way, manually. If resetting the BIOS through jumper or push button doesn't work you may need to hit another button to reset the NVRAM. You'll have to look in your manual for the procedure. One thing to immediately try is to reset the BIOS with all SATA/disk drives disconnected. You'd pull the Power Cord after depressing the power on button for over 4 seconds. If it does not power off then it is probably in Deep Sleep/Hibernation. You would make sure that the HDD access light isn't being lit and you'd pull the power cord from the back of the power supply. Once you can get back into the BIOS and set up Date/Time, VT-d, etc., power down the PC, pull the power plug, either wait until the green LE on the mobo goes dark or depress the power on button on the front of the case to drain all the capacitors. Reconnect all the SATA cables, connect the power cord and power up the PC. Hopefully you will be able to now get into the BIOS.


o erase the RTC RAM
1.
Turn OFF the computer and unplug the power cord.
2.
Move the jumper cap from pins 1-2 (default) to pins 2-3. Keep the cap on pins 2-3
for about 5–10 seconds, then move the cap back to pins 1-2.
3.
Plug the power cord and turn ON the computer.
4.
Hold down the <Del> key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter
data.
Except when clearing the RTC RAM, never remove the cap on CLRTC jumper default
position. Removing the cap will cause system boot failure!



2-22
If the steps above do not help, remove the onboard battery and move the jumper again
to clear the CMOS RTC RAM data. After the CMOS clearance, reinstall the battery.
You do not need to clear the RTC when the system hangs due to overclocking. For
system failure due to overclocking, use the C.P.R. (CPU Parameter Recall) feature.
Shut down and reboot the system so the BIOS can automatically reset parameter
settings to default values.
Due to the chipset behavior, AC power off is required to enable C.P.R. function. You
must turn off and on the power supply or unplug and plug the power cord before
rebooting the system.
 
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