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[SUCCESS] Gigabyte Designare Z390 (Thunderbolt 3) + i7-9700K + AMD RX 580

I completely forgot about checking the Antelope Server Ports! Am glad I am not the only user here now to test Antelope stuff out. Also glad you have a different piece of kit so we can make sure any progress works across multiple devices. :headbang:

What do your boot logs look like?

Code:
log show --last boot --style compact --predicate 'senderImagePath contains "AntelopeUnifiedDriver"' --info --debug
Yes my friend... you are not alone... (and after us thousands of users waiting for this to work to use the AFX2DAW and 64 channels ...) :banghead:

My log probably the same as yours ;)
Here you have...
 

Attachments

  • logAntelope.txt
    1.3 KB · Views: 70
It's definitely from a new in the box Z390 ITX. They must have re-cycled old firmware. I've built up 3 systems with it and this was one board that was not yet used.

No wonder TB didn't work so well on the builds (I had thread I'd started on the board last year).

Is it worth modifying or trying a newer version from a Z370?

This firmware seems to be from the ASRock Z370 Gaming-ITX/ac and has a particularly old NVM 14. Is this the right file?

View attachment 456757

You are both spot on - I have this board too and it was NVM14.
I got ASRock to provide a NVM20 here - https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/...olt-3-i7-9700k-amd-rx-580.267551/post-2089293
I have safely upgraded to NVM 20 from windows and have dumped the firmware again. Both are in the thread above.
@dgsga
 
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Yes my friend... you are not alone... (and after us thousands of users waiting for this to work to use the AFX2DAW and 64 channels ...) :banghead:

My log probably the same as yours ;)
Here you have...
Yup, same errors on my end. Sometimes I get ones with BAR0 as the error and it cannot identify the device at all. I think a few users at this point have tickets in with Antelope Audio support about connection issues on real macs.
 
Oh you definitely need the header cable attached!

Please try the version form the repository with header cable attached, and proper bios settings.
OK!! Maybe that's the trick :) (to have hotplug on my system without TBus, it must be disconnected)
-Or maybe a different bios settings for the patched firmware...-
I will test tomorrow again and report back...
Thank you!!

-By the way... (I need to have 75 posts to be able to see my conversations)-
 
OK!! Maybe that's the trick :) (to have hotplug on my system without TBus, it must be disconnected)
-Or maybe a different bios settings for the patched firmware...-
I will test tomorrow again and report back...
Thank you!!

-By the way... (I need to have 75 posts to be able to see my conversations)-

Post away. I was trying not to bombard poor Caseys thread more than I already do.
 
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@CaseySJ

To make sure the most recent was not the bad dump, i unclipped and reclipped my flasher and dumped 3 more firmware backups:

Code:
-Clip 1-
54ebf6cc87613d7317056f665b5b2be6cffa9e10  Z170XD-afterwinflash-1.bin
54ebf6cc87613d7317056f665b5b2be6cffa9e10  Z170XD-afterwinflash-2.bin
54ebf6cc87613d7317056f665b5b2be6cffa9e10  Z170XD-afterwinflash-3.bin
-Clip 2-
54ebf6cc87613d7317056f665b5b2be6cffa9e10  Z170XD-afterwinflash-4.bin
54ebf6cc87613d7317056f665b5b2be6cffa9e10  Z170XD-afterwinflash-5.bin
54ebf6cc87613d7317056f665b5b2be6cffa9e10  Z170XD-afterwinflash-6.bin
 
thinking back to the tricks we needed in the "old days" when messages/iMessage was more finicky.
log out of Messages/iCloud on all your Macs/hacks. log out of iMessage on all your iDevices. on your hack, open system preferences--network and delete your ethernet and wifi (if using) connections. go to Library/Preferences/System Configuration and delete NetworkInterfaces.plist. empty trash and reboot. open the network control panel again and add the Ethernet and wifi (if you use wifi) connections. log back in to iMessage on one iDevice, then try logging into Messages on your Hackintosh.
Thanks for your reply! I followed all the steps (removed ethernet connections and the NetworkInterfaces.plist, rebooted, signed in to Messages on my MacBook Pro) and when I tried to log in on my Hackintosh I still got the error "An error occurred during authentication", along with the code to contact customer support. That's really unfortunate. I don't really know what else I can do, apart from reinstalling macOS from scratch, which is the last thing I want to do (since I've spent so much time tweaking the OS to the current state).
 
The Thunderbolt log (with iMacPro1,1) no longer contains any entries from IOThunderboltFamily even though I intentionally gave you a DROM file with a bad CRC32_C checksum that was designed to illicit a response in the log.

Can you please post a screenshot of IORegistryExplorer --> NHI0@0 with ThunderboltDROM showing? The first 9 bytes should be obscured like this:
View attachment 456799
This will tell us if the right DROM is being injected.

Do you have two different macOS SSDs in the system (such as a primary and a backup)? If so, are you sure that the system is booting from the primary SSD? We can press F12 at BIOS splash screen to choose.

Going back to your original post in which you stated that during one attempt, flashrom reported that the chip was in an Unknown State. However, a subsequent attempt to flash the chip worked?

It might be a good idea to read the chip contents into a new file, compute its checksum shasum filename, and compare that to the checksum of Elias' firmware file. Do the checksums match?
Here’s a screenshot (iMac19,1 SMBIOS with correct SSDT):
Bildschirmfoto 2020-03-25 um 01.39.22.png
I have just one macOS system SSD and it was always booting from the correct EFI folder when trying.
And yes, two times flashrom reported that the chip was in an Unknown State, and then when I tried the third time with Raspberry Pi (plus 2K resistor and 47uF cap) the flash attempt seemed to work: It reported "verified" with exactly the same output that it should report according to your guide.
I would love to read the chip contents and compare the checksum, but I have been trying for four hours now to get flashrom to recognize that there’s a chip connected again, but no chance. Mostly yellow or orange light, sometimes after lots of wiggling red light, but obviously not the "correct" connection. I have two clips, one with a quite firm connection which is ALWAYS yellow or light orange, no matter what I do, and one where the pins already seem to slip away when trying (because I’ve been doing so for hours). It would be easier to solder out the chip than trying to get the right connection ;-) In fact I think I could manage that, because I have enough soldering experience. But since it’s really super small I would like to be sure before that it’s really necessary to do so.
 
You are both spot on - I have this board too and it was NVM14.
I got ASRock to provide a NVM20 here - https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/...olt-3-i7-9700k-amd-rx-580.267551/post-2089293
I have safely upgraded to NVM 20 from windows and have dumped the firmware again. Both are in the thread above.
@dgsga

Unfortunately, this board is not built, so no Windows with which to flash. I was planning on using flashrom to update firmware and then put mobo back in box for a later build.
 
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