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[SUCCESS] Gigabyte Designare Z390 (Thunderbolt 3) + i7-9700K + AMD RX 580

Damn it, the Bluetooth is blocked again, is there anything I can do?
 
Ok, this is interesting, since I hadn't tried all of the ports.

Both Rear Black: "Not Charging" indicated on iPad
Both Rear Red: "Not Charging" indicated on iPad
Both Rear Yellow: Charging (lightning bolt on battery)
Both Rear Blue: Charging (lightning bolt on battery)

Both USB-A ports on my case (Plugged into MoBo Header): "Not Charging" indicated on iPad.

Additionally, even when charging, the System Information for USB only shows 500ma, which shouldn't be enough to charge an iPad Pro with the screen on. This is an example when the iPad is plugged into a Blue port, I get charging indicator on the iPad with screen on, and indeed the battery percentage does increase.

Speed: Up to 480 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Inc.
Location ID: 0x14520000 / 12
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 500
Extra Operating Current (mA): 0
Sleep current (mA): 500
Later today I can test my iPad mini and iPad Pro on a number of USB ports and check the “Extra Operating Current”. My original test (earlier this year) did show an extra operating current, but that was with an earlier release of Mojave.
 
Damn it, the Bluetooth is blocked again, is there anything I can do?
Are you using the Fenvi FV-T919? Have you tried the same recovery steps as before?

If you have a dual boot system with Windows, have you installed any Broadcom drivers in Windows (it is strongly recommended not to do so)?

Does the Bluetooth icon appear in the menu bar without being grayed out or in a deactivated state?
 
My mac is freezing one time by day. How to check what is the problem ? Is it because I activated Filevault ?

When he freezes, I need to restart.
My first suggestion would be to boot from your bootable backup disk for a couple of days to check for system stability. If that system is stable then we can try to determine what might have happened to the main boot disk.
 
I have the ABWB card that is used by others in hackintoshes without problem, I don't think the problem comes from the card. The Bluetooth is "unavailable" in the menu, but it is enabled in the system preferences but I can't disable it, nothing is happening (earlier, it was disabled and I couldn't enable it). I didn't turn it off to make a reset this time. If this is the only way to restart the Bluetooth, it seems easier to me to disconnect the Bluetooth part of the card and install a dongle, right? Looks like a conflict between the USB ports.
I didn't install Windows so that's not the problem.:?:
 
@CaseySJ
Yes, I can. You will find an attached photo.
Thank you
EFI.png
 
Later today I can test my iPad mini and iPad Pro on a number of USB ports and check the “Extra Operating Current”. My original test (earlier this year) did show an extra operating current, but that was with an earlier release of Mojave.

Thanks @CaseySJ . As a side note, I had a thought. What happens with the patches if a HW device doesn't exist? I physically removed the CNVi card from the MoBo since people suggested this improved BT and WiFi performance. The theory was, even though the OS wasn't using it, it was still powered, which could have enabled the radios to produce RF interference with the Fenvi. I figured physically removing the board was a simple way to ensure that couldn't occur. However, does this mean the patches you provided might be "off" in some way?
 
I'm in love with this app called MonitorControl, using your keyboard (works with Magic Kb too) you can control the brightness and volume of your display IF it supports DDC. Can't recommend it enough. Even if you use a real Mac with a Non-Apple external display... this is gold. In case you use brew, it's on cask too: brew cask install monitorcontrol


Great app indeed, but the only thing I'd miss compared to NativeDisplayBrightness.app it's the ability to show the brightness as percentage at the menu bar
 
In the initial post there is a section about installing Windows 10 on the NVME slot closer to the CPU. I found out I did that the wrong way, so I just swapped them (Windows is now on the upper NVME slot, macOS on the lower slot). That did not cause any problems with both installations, but I am not quite sure: do I have to change anything else? Where in Windows can I check which SSD is called "disk 0" now? Is that the widow where you can partition disks? If that is it, swapping the drives did not change the numbering ...
Generally, I get the feeling that every time I boot up Windows, the next time I start macOS, there is a kernel panic or the wifi does not work after the first boot ... nothing that doesn't fix itself somehow, but not very comforting ...
Would you generally recommend to rather not have a second OS on the hackintosh? Or should it not make any difference as long as you install on the right drives?
 
Ok, replying to myself. After reading a bit more I think this might have been a "user error" with a "soft boot" into the Mac side from having been using the Windows side of things. I had not tried turning the power totally off at the PSU.

So, I shutdown and hit the switch on the PSU. Waited a bit and then booted into the Mac side. The TB3 ports were working again. So, with regards to the TB ports, do we need to fully shutdown and turn off power each time we switch between OSes?

Sometimes I have to disconnect the TB cables after I shutdown. IDK if there's a "memory" effect in these TB cables or what, but it seems to do the trick. I'm running OS X all the time now; the power cables to any Windows drive are always disconnected and vice-versa. –I never have any OS X-related volumes attached when I run Windows. I also use a separate Windows BIOS setting when I need to monkey around in there, which is now rare.
 
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