[Guide] Lenovo Thinkpad T440S using Clover UEFI hotpatch

[CoBrA2168]

One method is that you can verify on Windows if it's hardware limitation

Personally i believe i don't have/didn't have that issue, i had the iPhone XS and i believe i wasn't affected, i can confirm that later tonight for you after testing on my V330.
But if it's not a hardware limitation, we should be able to fix that without much trouble.

I do have a USB drive with a Windows 10 "live" image somewhere, I suppose I could try that. I unfortunately do not have an internal drive or partition with another OS on it.

I could also boot into a live image of Ubuntu or another flavor of Linux. That could also help confirm.

 

[soeryobadja]

These needs to be on EFI/Clover/kexts/Other and the last section of kexts listed om the guide explains which kexts need to be installed into L/E

Thanks for responding. My query was actually on post install (you refered to the Clover in USB installer, where the kexts needs to be installed for first Mojave USB install process), on whether I need to put the same kext in my EFI of Mojave drive, the same set of kexts that I put inside the EFI folder on my USB drive. If I put the same kext in EFi of my Mojave drive, wouldnt it be a problem with a the kexts that is installed to L/E?
As what I understand, I only need to put the bare minimum of kexts inside EFI of my Mojave disk, and let the kext installed at L/E do the rest? CMIIW.

 

[Sniki]

Thanks for responding. My query was actually on post install (you refered to the Clover in USB installer, where the kexts needs to be installed for first Mojave USB install process), on whether I need to put the same kext in my EFI of Mojave drive, the same set of kexts that I put inside the EFI folder on my USB drive. If I put the same kext in EFi of my Mojave drive, wouldnt it be a problem with a the kexts that is installed to L/E?
As what I understand, I only need to put the bare minimum of kexts inside EFI of my Mojave disk, and let the kext installed at L/E do the rest? CMIIW.

All the kexts listed on post install need to be installed on L/E (including the ones that are on EFI).
Clover does the automatic detection, you need them on EFI for System Updates or Clean install from Disk scenarios.
There's absolutely no problem with that and has never been any for me.
That's how it's properly documented by Apple (as RehabMan stated on FAQ) no matter what other forums or people on other forums say.

 

[Sniki]

I do have a USB drive with a Windows 10 "live" image somewhere, I suppose I could try that. I unfortunately do not have an internal drive or partition with another OS on it.

I could also boot into a live image of Ubuntu or another flavor of Linux. That could also help confirm.

a live linux from USB Drive should do the job i think.

 

[anmool]

what is your current wifi adapter? are you using BCM94360CS2

 

[CoBrA2168]

a live linux from USB Drive should do the job i think.

I ended up finding my Windows 10 Live HDD and used that to boot. It's Win 10 Enterprise (Evaluation).

This test makes me even more confused. Upon first boot, I plugged in the iPhone XS and it installed the driver as expected. Data and power were working. This was in the top left port. I then plugged it into the bottom left port, but this port would only power the device (no data). I unplugged it 10-20 times, and there was one case when I was able to get it to connect with data, but it was brief. The next time I reconnected it, it no longer had data connection (just stable power). Never once did it do the disconnect/reconnect thing. The top right port was occupied by the USB HDD.

I rebooted into MacOS to see how things were working. The top left port continued to display the disconnect/reconnect symptoms. This port worked perfectly on Win10. The bottom left port was doing the same thing as Win10 - power only. But it was consistent. The top right port was doing the disconnect/reconnect dance.

I booted back into Win10, except this time I used the top left port for the USB HDD to boot from. The bottom left port did the same as before - power only with data in some cases. The top right port this time worked perfectly - always giving me data and power each and every connect.

Back to MacOS one last time. I plugged into the top left port, and to my surprise, I have a stable data and power connection. Here's what it shows in the USB tree when it's fully connected successfully:

Notice we now see the Extra Operating Current and Sleep Current reported correctly. The location ID is different too (even though all of these screenshots I took are from the top left port).

The bottom left port is still only giving me power. The top right port is doing the disconnect/reconnect dance. I just plugged it back into the top left and it seems stable again.

All tests were done with the same exact USB A to Lightning cable and all were done with the iPhone at around 70% battery (obviously it went up as I was testing). The computer was at around 80% and was on battery, it ended around 70%. I notice that there isn't much of a difference on battery vs. power.

It seems that the bottom left port is the "worst" port to use on any OS. The top left one seems to sometimes work in MacOS, but always work in Win10. Top right I haven't gotten to work on MacOS but it works consistently on Win10. Remember that this is ONLY with devices like the iPhone XS - USB drives and older iPhones work on all ports, all the time (both data and power). Since I'm experiencing some weirdness in Windows 10 (but less so than in MacOS) I'm guessing this is some sort of hardware limitation I'm hitting.

Any ideas?!?

 

[Sniki]

I ended up finding my Windows 10 Live HDD and used that to boot. It's Win 10 Enterprise (Evaluation).

This test makes me even more confused. Upon first boot, I plugged in the iPhone XS and it installed the driver as expected. Data and power were working. This was in the top left port. I then plugged it into the bottom left port, but this port would only power the device (no data). I unplugged it 10-20 times, and there was one case when I was able to get it to connect with data, but it was brief. The next time I reconnected it, it no longer had data connection (just stable power). Never once did it do the disconnect/reconnect thing. The top right port was occupied by the USB HDD.

I rebooted into MacOS to see how things were working. The top left port continued to display the disconnect/reconnect symptoms. This port worked perfectly on Win10. The bottom left port was doing the same thing as Win10 - power only. But it was consistent. The top right port was doing the disconnect/reconnect dance.

I booted back into Win10, except this time I used the top left port for the USB HDD to boot from. The bottom left port did the same as before - power only with data in some cases. The top right port this time worked perfectly - always giving me data and power each and every connect.

Back to MacOS one last time. I plugged into the top left port, and to my surprise, I have a stable data and power connection. Here's what it shows in the USB tree when it's fully connected successfully:
View attachment 415892
Notice we now see the Extra Operating Current and Sleep Current reported correctly. The location ID is different too (even though all of these screenshots I took are from the top left port).

The bottom left port is still only giving me power. The top right port is doing the disconnect/reconnect dance. I just plugged it back into the top left and it seems stable again.

All tests were done with the same exact USB A to Lightning cable and all were done with the iPhone at around 70% battery (obviously it went up as I was testing). The computer was at around 80% and was on battery, it ended around 70%. I notice that there isn't much of a difference on battery vs. power.

It seems that the bottom left port is the "worst" port to use on any OS. The top left one seems to sometimes work in MacOS, but always work in Win10. Top right I haven't gotten to work on MacOS but it works consistently on Win10. Remember that this is ONLY with devices like the iPhone XS - USB drives and older iPhones work on all ports, all the time (both data and power). Since I'm experiencing some weirdness in Windows 10 (but less so than in MacOS) I'm guessing this is some sort of hardware limitation I'm hitting.

Any ideas?!?

About bottom left port it may be a hardware issue.
I will try to edit the power properties to override those of MacbookPro 11,1 and inject the ones from MacBookPro14,1 to see if it improves your situation.
Actually i just remembered having same issue with my T440S while i had it.

I will send you some files for testing tonight,
Yesterday i was busy with some other projects and couldn't do any testing at all.

 

[Sniki]

what is your current wifi adapter? are you using BCM94360CS2

Yes im using that one on my Lenovo V330-15IKB.

It's natively supported (no need for a kext)
Even Instant Hotspot works, tested yesterday.
That is expected as it's the same card used on real macbooks

 

[CoBrA2168]

About bottom left port it may be a hardware issue.
I will try to edit the power properties to override those of MacbookPro 11,1 and inject the ones from MacBookPro14,1 to see if it improves your situation.
Actually i just remembered having same issue with my T440S while i had it.

I will send you some files for testing tonight,
Yesterday i was busy with some other projects and couldn't do any testing at all.

Yeah I have no idea what's going on with the bottom left port. For a sanity check, I plugged in a USB flash drive and it worked just fine. It must have the worst amount of power being fed to it.

That would be great if you have a potential fix or solution. I'd be happy to try anything out.

 

[CoBrA2168]

Yes im using that one on my Lenovo V330-15IKB.

It's natively supported (no need for a kext)
Even Instant Hotspot works, tested yesterday.
That is expected as it's the same card used on real macbooks

I would love to switch to this card (from the DW1560) but it doesn't look like it will fit correctly. It looks like the adapter with the WiFi card installed would be too long to fit into this laptop. Can anyone confirm it fits without any modifications?