Contribute
Register

G4 Tower Build (Sawtooth)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 16, 2014
Messages
160
Motherboard
GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5
CPU
I7-6700
Graphics
GTX 970
Mac
  1. iMac
  2. MacBook Pro
Classic Mac
  1. Power Mac
Mobile Phone
  1. iOS
Finally started my FIRST Hackintosh Project.
Thanks to this website I've been able to do quite a bit of research and ready to start my build.
The Apple G4 was one of the best computers I ever owned, purchased new in 1998, it was still running, and until Apple changed processor/architecture ran for a good 10 years! I still miss the User Interface of the old iTunes and iPhotos apps.

The Build Plan - is to have a multi-boot system, having a different hard drive for each OS. Mac OS for all my graphic design work, photography and video editing, and a (yes, can't believe I'm saying this) but Windows primarily to run games I play like Blizzards/WOW etc.

G4Org.png


Day 1
Gutting the Tower. I removed pretty much everything, and for whatever reason, cataloged each part.

G4OldCase.png


Day 2
All gutted, nice and shiny clean, time to start ordering parts. But first, (based on recommendations from this site) I'm going to do some cardboard cutouts (event though I measured) just to be sure everything fits like I want it.

Day 3-30
I've put together my parts list, need up getting everything else is from Amazon, as a Prime member get all shipping free so saved some big bucks there. Note, I did not order them all at once so I spread the cost over a month of pay checks.
Here's the part list.

  • Mobo: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5
  • CPU: Intel Core I7-6700 FC-LGA14C 3.40 GHz 8 M Processor Cache 4 LGA 1151
  • Graphics: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 Overclocked GDDR5, 4GB
  • Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM
  • Internal Drives: SSD Samsung, HD Western Digital
  • Drive SSD Brackets: SNANSHI SSD Bracket 2.5 inch SSD HDD to 3.5 inch Metal Mounting Adapter Bracket Hard Drive Holder for PC SSD (Pack of 2) NOTE: These worked perfect, used them with the original HD catty mount.
  • Power Supply: EVGA 700 B1, 80+ BRONZE 700W (fit perfect with my G4 Sawtooth case)
  • Wifi Card: TP-LINK N900 2.4GHz or 5GHz up to 450Mbps Wireless Dual Band PCI Express Adapter for Windows NOTE: This worked prefect out of the box with both the Mac and Windows with no drivers required at all which came in handing as back and forth Multibeast, Clover set up and configurations kept enabling and disabling my Ethernet connections.
  • USB/HD Audio: E-SDS USB 3.0 2-Port 3.5 Inch Front Panel USB Hub with 1 HD Audio Output Port/1 Microphone Input Port/1 USB 3.1 Type C Port for Desktop [ 20 Pin Connector &Audio Connector &2ft Adapter Cable] NOTE: Since the optical drive wasn't going to fit and I had no use for the old Zip Drive, this fit perfect in that front panel space, not drivers ext. worked out of the box first time.
  • Internal System Fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 LED Quiet Edition High Airflow Fans (2) NOTE: I cut out the original vent and cut a second to have two side-by-side fans since I opted not to do a Liquid Cooler. These fit great and are LED so give a nice glow through the outside case (see pg 3) - However I may replace them because they were of the old 3-PIN and my mobo is is 4-PIN (for variable speed controlled fans) so they are hooked up directly to the power supply and always are running while the box is powered up.
  • Mobo mounting posts: Hilitchi 240pcs M2 and M3 Brass Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Assortment Kit.
  • Jumper Cables: 30CM F/F Breadboard Jumper Wires Kit,80Pin Female to Female Ribbon Cables(2 X 40 Pcs) NOTE: These were perfect to wire up the connectors to the original Mac front panel board for the Power and Reset Button and LED Power light - no splicing, soldering or mess (see pg 3 for diagram). More cables than I need so let me know if need some!
  • SATA Cables: RELPER 3pcs Pack 10-inch 26AWG SATA III 6.0 Gbps 7pin Female to Female Data Cable with Locking Latch NOTE: While my mobo came with 4, they were cheap and the end clips broke on a couple, always good to have spare wires/cables for projects like these.
 
Last edited:
Parts starting arriving this week via Amazon Prime free 2 day delivery, now to start positioning the components to see where I need to do mods to my G4 case. My goal is keep the case as close to the original/standard as possible. On seeing a YouTube video where someone melted the plastic back with a Dremel, I found with a little toggling, easy prying the snaps let loose and allowed me to remove it first before cutting the back
IMG_6266.jpg


IMG_6275.jpg
 
Last edited:
Case Modifications: Cutting out the connector panel was so far the hardest for me (first time using a Dremel tool : ), broke a lot of blades in the process. The more expensive ones (and I recommend getting the quick release adapter and blades) worked well for major cuts, but I found the smaller, inexpensive ones worked better for tight corners. I ended having to cut the bar in between the connector panel and PCI lots because the mobo audio jacks fell right in the middle of it.

Other cuts were to the brace that runs across the inside top where the DVD/Old Zip Drive and the Power Supply sit to allow room for the liquid cooler cables and other power cables. I also made straight cuts on the bottom to allow more air flow for the liquid cooler since I have to mount it facing down due to the short length of its cables. I'll be cleaning/smoothing those up a bit before I start installing everything.

IMG_6280.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6276.jpg
    IMG_6276.jpg
    244.5 KB · Views: 451
Last edited:
IMG_6389.jpg
More cuts.
 
Last edited:
So the out-of-the box liquid cooler is not going to work. :( Can't find any stock that has a hose long enough for what I had in mind. My graphics card is so tall it can't go over the top so needs to snake around. I'm thinking about not doing a liquid cooler at all now. When gaming I rarely play more than a couple of hours at a time, graphics/video rendering is they only other thing that would heat up my box so I think I'll just go with two regular fans.
AFTER BUILD UPDATE: So far my CPU has been motioning a temp of 40 C which is good, I'll check it again after a few hours of gaming or rendering videos to see how high it might get I have 2 fans moving the air flow out the back of the case through the original vent holes so seems to be working good so far.

IMG_6294.jpg
IMG_6317.jpg
 
Last edited:
So I went low-tech on mounting the motherboard using regular machine screws and rubber washers both under and on top of the board. I've only bolted 4 of these connections, but other areas have just the post (screw) poking through - I didn't add any washers/bolts to these as some where close to either sodder areas or too close to resisters etc.

IMG_6322.jpg
IMG_6323.jpg
 
StandOff.png
StandoffPost.jpg
So I went low-tech on mounting the motherboard using regular machine screws and rubber washers both under and on top of the board. I've only bolted 4 of these connections, but other areas have just the post (screw) poking through - I didn't add any washers/bolts to these as some where close to either sodder areas or too close to resisters etc.
Okay, changed gears and decided to use standard standoff posts, but the problem was I had already drilled out a larger whole so I used a combination of (can with supply) small nut, washers (separate) and top.

View attachment 207789 View attachment 207790
 
Last edited:
Another disappointment (should have know based on other builds) I won't be able to keep an internal DVR because the motherboard power connectors stick out too far and the door won't close. Decided to use that DVD door/space and include a front panel USB and Audio connection.

DVD-Mobo.jpg
 
Last edited:
More Case Modifications
Needed to go back and chop up my box to get the door to shut with all the tables (that mobo power cable issue), cut a couple holes for dual fans since I'm not doing a liquid cooler any more.

IMG_6387.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6389.jpg
    IMG_6389.jpg
    37.9 KB · Views: 1,320
Last edited:
Adding back panel and fans.
I liked the way the back panel turned out (could be a little more tidy), I painted the momo cover that was black to silver so it looks a little more like the original (though it was a 3-D hologram, hard to replicate that), I went with the original PCI slots so the monster card did'n line up perfect, DMI/connections will be a little tight but will work. Also added grilles to the fans on the inside to ensure no wires get chopped up.

IMG_6401.jpg

IMG_6391.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top